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Monday, November 24, 2014

McCall's 6436 - Floral Silk Crepe de Chine





Enter this gorgeous Mood Fabrics' floral silk crepe de chine (sold out) and McCall's 6436  a perfect pairing.  After all, the fabric recommendations on the envelope include crepe de chine.

My favorite thing about the fabric is the colors, aqua is my color of choice.  My house has accents of aqua everywhere, maybe that is why I ordered this fabric.  Just look at my dining room curtains


I am just blah on this blouse, but to start I am going to go with the positives.

I like this pattern, I have made it before in the sleeveless version for summer, check out the navy one .  I love this one, it is just classic looking.

The pattern goes together very nicely and there is no sleeve placket or binding.  Why you ask?  The sleeve is a two piece sleeve and the seam is the opening.  Pretty nice and if you are nervous about the binding or the placket, this pattern might be a good one to use.  I have included the line drawing so you can see this.





I remembered on this one to lower my bust dart  (I forgot on the navy one) and that is very good thing on my finished blouse.


This blouse is long, so I can wear it with my ponte pants and an oversized cardigan, I like that.




I like that the silk drapes beautifully and  I used my Fashion Sewing Supply's Elegance interfacing for the first time.  I more than like this interfacing, I love it.  Elegance interfacing couldn't have been more perfect for this silk fabric.

I did go through my buttons and found the lightest (in weight) for this blouse.  The fabric is just so fine, I didn't want the buttons pulling at the fabric.




Now for what I don't like there is just too much floral going on.  I look in my closet and there isn't much floral and now I know why- not me.  Floral fabric has been sewn by me - I looked back at my Mood posts and saw a couple of floral things. For those garments made with  floral fabric,  they just don't get worn much and I end up donating them.  Here is one floral top I wear quite a bit - the black floral with solid black knit

Now I am going to try and get this one to work, I really love the feel of the fabric and I really did a nice job sewing this one.  

Here is one solution -with a denim jacket

I also will wear it under a crew neck sweater to calm down all that floral.

Over at Mood, Amy used this fabric for a beautiful tank, the color blocking was a great way to use the floral.


Note to self-  no florals, they just are not me.  Oh, and guess what?  I have another floral in my stash.  I think I will be giving that away on the blog.  Look for that after Thanksgiving.

Anyone else have a style of fabric that just isn't them?


PS - Raining this morning, so the pictures are a bit dark but I went for it anyway.  Also, I need to get my hair longer like earlier this year.  I am going to remember color only - no cuts!

Friday, November 21, 2014

Friday Fashion Inspiration -8


How about blouses for this week?  I for one love them, on their own or layered, a versatile garment.

The beautiful wrap blouse, perfect for daytime or evening or holidays
here is one RTW inspiraton from Nordstrom
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And at least three patterns for your look

Hot Patterns Acqualina
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The Dotty Blouse from Style Arc

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Just a nice basic blouse but the fabric really makes the statement, and this inspiration from Anthropologie is the ticket.
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It look like it is collarless, so that is the patterns I am picking

The Victoria Blouse from Style Arc, which has a great back yoke for even more print mixing
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or one from Vogue 1412
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A draped front blouse for your fall/winter sewing?  This is a pretty one from Mod Cloth
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and this McCall's 6604 couldn't be any closer
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From ISSA at Net-a-Porter
this beautiful blouse.
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You probably have a blouse pattern that would work but if not here is a suggestion
Omit the pockets and use the flaps, McCall's 6436
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And the last one, this beautiful blouse with such a nice neckline detail, which is from ModCloth
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Simplicity  1280 has a great one for this look
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That is it for this week.  Favorites?  I can't pick just one, I love them all and my mind is thinking of the possibilities.  Now to find more time to sew, which will be harder with the upcoming holidays.

Next week, there will be no Friday Fashion Inspiration, I will be spending time with family for Thanksgiving.




Thursday, November 20, 2014

Mood Fabrics' Silk Blouse - Vogue 1387

Fabric and Pattern,  very important parts of constructing a garment, right?  Well, I had the perfect combination of fabric and pattern right in front of me and I kept missing it!  I purchased  Mood Fabrics' red polka dot silk by Donna Karan and I just kept touching it and touching it.  I had purchased Vogue 1387 after seeing Erica's gorgeous sleeveless blouse.  Then I had one of those light bulb moments - the long sleeve blouse from Vogue 1387 and the red silk would be a perfect combination.  This red polka dot silk is sold out but Mood Fabrics has a great silk  selection and more specifically Crepe De Chine (one of the recommended fabrics on the pattern envelope)


Mood Fabrics' silk for a blouse using Vogue 1387

 

 Spinning around does make the front of the blouse stick out!  

 The construction on this blouse is a bit tricky, with the curved yoke, bias strip and the pleated front.  I tried to remember to take one step at a time and really read the directions. Do take note of the front yoke piece, the curve for the sleeve and the curve for the yoke are a bit similar so make sure have the yoke in the correct position before sewing.  Yes, ask me how I know this! Here is a close up of the yoke and the bias strip, which is  a nice design feature and it does make it easier to join all these curved pieces.  On the next blouse, I might use the yoke facing piece and eliminate the bias strip.  Using the yoke facing for the front yoke would keep from breaking up a beautiful print with the small bias strip.


  yoke of Vogue 1387


  I did use a technique called "burrito-style" for a inside clean finish with the yokes and the shoulder seams.  You can search that term and find many tutorials or here is one that will help with this method.     I am so thrilled with my sleeve placket, the first one I have sewn in a very long time.

sleeve placket - Vogue 1387


   Do you see  there are no buttons?  The cuffs and front placket of the blouse use snaps for a closure, something a bit unique  but you could sew buttonholes and attach buttons too.  I liked the simplicity of no buttonholes on this blouse and the gorgeous fabric.

Mood Fabrics' silk for a blouse using Vogue 1387




  I added 1" to the sleeves and the body of the blouse, my usual change.   This blouse has a shirttail hem design and the back is just a bit longer than the front.  My red polka dot silk does have a right and wrong side but the difference is minimal so the longer back hem isn't an issue.  A look a the right and wrong side of the fabric for this feature might be something to consider. The back drapes so nicely and this silk fabric is so perfect for the pleats and the cut of the shirt, plus if feels incredible.



Mood Fabrics' silk for a blouse using Vogue 1387

A couple of construction notes, the side seams are finished with a serger, as is the armhole seam.  I so admire those garments that are so perfectly finished but I just tend to go to my serger for finishing many seams.  I did not a french seam on the sleeve seam, just in case I wanted to roll up the sleeves, then it would look nice!  I really don't think I will roll the sleeves, not sure how well they will stay rolled with the slippery silk.


 That is it for this beautiful red silk blouse, the snow started to come down and I was just getting cold

Mood Fabrics' silk for a blouse using Vogue 1387

 

Wednesday, November 19, 2014

Vogue 1387 - Mood Fabrics


Yes, it is November and I have a blouse completed for the holiday season.  I am feeling pretty pleased with myself.

I used Vogue 1387

and a beautiful  Mood Fabrics' red polka dot silk

Here is just a peak at my sleeve placket, first one I have made in a very long time.  It was easier than I remembered so I will do it more often!


You can see the rest of the blouse over at Mood Sewing Network 

Friday, November 14, 2014

Friday Fashion Inspiration - 7



Outerwear is the theme for this Friday and I am starting with capes.

  I love this one from Nordstrom's




Burda Style 10-2012 #140has a nice one for this look



or a bit different look from Neiman Marcus

Vogue 8959 is a beautiful cape


A Pendleton Wool coat with toggles, which I love from Nordstrom

Colette Albion coat is a winner for this look.  I really should make this one, I just think toggles are a fun - classic- vintage.  I just can't pick the right word.  What do you think?


A hooded raincoat anyone?

Sewaholic Minoru  is a pattern with many positive reviews and the waist detail is great. Another coat I should make, my poor list is growing!




Loving these leather inserts from Nordstrom

This Simplicity 1781 would work pretty well


This last one isn't true outerwear but I guess depending on your location, might be all the jacket you need.

Favorites?  Suggestions?


Since I have started this feature, I have had all sorts of offers.  I could blog outfits for a day in Vegas, that would be hard never been there!  I could share some nail products with my readers and   the world's largest online auction marketplace (company to rename nameless but does not start with an E).  They were very nice emails and I was very appreciative but just not a direction I want to go!

I do have a favor to ask - anyone good with graphics?  Would you be willing to design a graphic for this Friday Fashion Inspiration?

Monday, November 10, 2014

Archer Shirt - Paisley and Polka Dot


I know what you are thinking....another Grainline Archer Shirt.  Sorry, I can't help myself, I love this pattern and wear my previous makes so much. Plus it fits so nicely and always turns out just perfectly.

I won't wear this one with the collar popped up but wanted you you to see the polka dot under collar



This time I combined two fabrics

First this Mood Fabrics' Polka Dot 

for the inside cuffs, inside collar band, under collar and I made a loop for the back.

And this Paisley poplin for the main body/sleeves of the shirt

I will probably wear this one with the cuffs turned up mostly but here is a picture with the cuffs buttoned and me frozen!


I wanted to have some contrast fabric on this shirt and the polka dot was perfect for the paisley.


I used the interfacing pattern for the cuffs, adding 1/4" for the seam to join the paisley and the polka dot.  I tried for the best balanced buttonhole and used cream in the bobbin and blue in the needle.   I didn't want the eye to be drawn to the buttonhole on the cuff.




Also, on the back, I added loop just below the yoke. To make this possible I did an inverse pleat on the back.


Here is a full view of the back



To finish off this shirt, I put in a label.  A Mood Fabrics' label which came with my last order.  It is a fun touch


The fabric was perfect for this shirt and the two fabrics really worked well together.  I was pleasantly surprised how well they worked together, it is always a toss up when ordering online without a swatch.

A couple things to note - I totally forgot to change the bobbin thread  for the buttonhole on the inside collar band but it is okay and this was my quickest photo shoot ever.  Little guy was hanging out with me this afternoon and his favorite thing was to climb down the porch and take off running.  It is so fun for Nana to chase!